Flats or heels? How the pandemic polarised footwear

Through the to start with United kingdom lockdown in early 2020, I fantasised about all…


Through the to start with United kingdom lockdown in early 2020, I fantasised about all the excellent sneakers I would wear when I was authorized to sit inside a bar or dance at a house bash. But practically two many years afterwards, I’m nevertheless achieving for the similar pairs of household slippers, sneakers and the occasional rainproof boots. A pair of black Nike Lahars with a chunky mountaineering sole are the only footwear I have purchased due to the fact 2019.

To me, heels have by no means appeared so irrelevant. Nevertheless the 2nd-hottest women’s solution on research motor Lyst in the 3rd quarter was Versace’s Medusa Aevitas platform pumps in shimmering satin, which were unveiled on the Versace runway in March and immediately spotted on the likes of Dua Lipa, Ariana Grande and Beyoncé.

On the streets, I have commenced to place a handful of common wearers of impossibly high platform boots and listen to the click on-clack of heels on Friday nights. Am I actually the only one sticking to Nikes and Doc Martens? The respond to, like our submit-Covid existence, is complex.

According to multi-brand boutiques Browns in London and Luisa Through Roma in Florence, buyers returned to assertion footwear as before long as they read lockdowns have been easing very last year. “It practically went ‘boop’ overnight,” states Hollie Harding, acquiring manager for non-attire at Browns. “The client shifted from boots to heels — embellished, glitter, satin, colourful. I assumed there would be a little bit of gradation with heel top, but they went straight back to 100mm heels and platforms.” Brands this kind of as Amina Muaddi and Mach&Mach, which supply embellished heeled footwear in silk-satin and PVC, commenced to sell out as quickly as they were obtainable.

Some consumers went straight from boots to embellished heels — such as these crystal satin pumps from Mach&Mach — as shortly as they read lockdowns were easing

“It’s a craze considerably much better than prior to,” states Graziella Carta, senior customer at Luisa By way of Roma, where by Amina Muaddi and Mach&Mach sneakers are also common, alongside alternatives from Aquazzura, Versace, René Caovilla and Roger Vivier.

Irakli Kikolashvili, general supervisor of Georgian brand name Mach&Mach, which was established in 2012, states that gross sales spiked 500 per cent in 2020 in excess of 2019 as shoppers looked for “sparkle and emotion”. (The sale boost was also powered by the selection to shift production to Italy at the conclude of 2019, which allowed the brand name to improve quantities, increase high-quality and meet the demand of global buyers.)

Amina Muaddi, founder of the eponymous brand, thinks her sneakers acted as a mood booster all through the pandemic. Over the past 12 months, profits have improved 150 for each cent. “It was an escape from fact. Women needed to buy really matters, because if you stay a year at property putting on a tracksuit it influences your mood,” she states. The model has ongoing to offer out at Browns.

High-heeled Amina Muaddi Begum Glass 95 crystal pumps in bright pink, £765, brownsfashion.com
Amina Muaddi Begum Glass 95 crystal pumps, £765, brownsfashion.com
High-heeled Amina Muaddi Emili 95 crystal satin mules, £865, brownsfashion.com
Amina Muaddi Emili 95 crystal satin mules, £865, brownsfashion.com
JW Anderson chain-embellished leather slippers, £495, net-a-porter.com
JW Anderson chain-embellished leather-based slippers, £495, web-a-porter.com

For other customers, nevertheless, likely again to their pre-pandemic dressing behaviors, specifically in phrases of footwear, has been demanding. “People are relearning how to dress, how to glimpse very good and how to truly feel great,” states own stylist Neelam Mistry-Thaker. “When it comes to heels, they are practically daunted by it.”

“Most men and women I have appear into get hold of with simply cannot be doing with heels any additional,” echoes stylist, shopper and picture advisor Laura Fawcett.

“I have a wardrobe full of the most glorious footwear — and all I have worn in two yrs are sneakers and Birkenstocks,” suggests my previous colleague Penelope, who was heading as a result of cancer treatment and shielding in 2020. “Whenever I open my wardrobe, I really feel a little bit unhappy.”

She’s had a tricky time reconnecting with her pre-Covid wardrobe. “Once lockdown 3 had at last lifted, all my patterns relating to obtaining dressed and viewing people today in particular person experienced modified,” she proceeds. “It’s been a definitely mindful and hard approach in excess of the past couple of months to reconnect me now to me then. Sneakers have been the toughest bit because it feels like an exertion to place on heels or something deeply impractical when I’m only likely for a wander around the park or to the nearby stores.”

Birkenstock + Net-a-Porter Arizona flat sandals in black leather, £320, net-a-porter.com
Birkenstock + Web-a-Porter Arizona leather-based sandals, £320, net-a-porter.com
Proenza Schouler shearling-lined leather mules, £570, net-a-porter.com
Proenza Schouler shearling-lined leather-based mules, £570, web-a-porter.com
Nike Lahar black suede sneakers, £115, net-a-porter.com
Nike Lahar suede sneakers, £115, net-a-porter.com

This polarised solution to footwear is verified by Lyst, which information sneakers, loafers and system heels as the top rated 3 footwear choices for ladies globally in the previous 3 months. In the third quarter, the hottest merchandise right after the aforementioned Versace Medusa Aevitas platform pumps ended up the hyper-snug and casual: pool slides from Bottega Veneta, Nike React Vapor NXT sneakers and JW Anderson chain loafer mules.

Whether or not it is heels, flats, system footwear or boots, customers are gravitating to designs that make them come to feel emotionally and psychologically relaxed and that can get the job done in a assortment of settings. Stylist and specialist Sara King Moura has dropped superior heels but nevertheless wears kitten heels in neutral hues to go well with different events. “Since the pandemic I have stayed hyper-faithful to models that deal with all yr close to,” she claims.

With the help of stylist Alison McDougal, my ex-colleague Penelope is rediscovering her wardrobe and how it feels to put on great things, while earning diversifications for her present-day self. “She aided me realise that I could nevertheless use lovely factors and I could put on them just for me if I desired to,” she suggests. “Rather than acquiring a ‘lust list’ of long run buys, now I am shopping my [existing] shoe collection. But I did toss away my skanky sneakers and exchange them with a thing far more exciting — so possibly it’s just a make a difference of time.”

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