A First Look at Nigo’s Kenzo, Where the Clothing is the Star of the Show

“There ended up flower styles that I experienced under no circumstances noticed prior to. Wonderful…

“There ended up flower styles that I experienced under no circumstances noticed prior to. Wonderful things that just didn’t get repeated as the manufacturer moved into its even larger, let us say more prosperous phase. A large amount of the early styles have been very experimental in a way that was not going on so a great deal in the manufacturer in the ’80s,” he claims. “I located some of those people ideas to be exciting also.” 

For his fall 2022 debut, flower prints and some of Takada’s own sketches from the 1970s are recreated on garments and accessories. Other strategies from the Kenzo archive, like Harris tweed tailoring and scarf-meets-snood collars, are re-released, while Nigo’s have obsessions like Ivy League design and style and Aka-e pottery seem as motifs. The silhouette is exceptionally layered, not only virtually, but with references that bridge East-West cultures. Various parts reference the construction of a kimono. “The stylist experienced tied it up in a variety of rational way to tie collectively two straps, but to me, it just felt absolutely mistaken. In displaying everybody how to do this issue that arrives from standard Japanese apparel at that instant, I was just like, ‘Yeah all right, I’m actually Japanese,’” he says with a smile. “I believe that there are not so lots of individuals who comprehend what Kenzo means in terms of clothing—that’s what I want to focus on and bring people’s notice to throughout my time at the label.”

Nigo in entrance of Kenzo’s ateliers in Paris’s second arrondissement 

Photographed by Acielle / StyleDuMonde

Here he touches on a thing that, even if some of the intonation was lost in translation, feels like a barb to the way the vogue process, and specifically its promoting arm, operates now. “The goal for me at Kenzo—but I think in principle it ought to be the objective for everyone in fashion—is for the most important selection that I’m putting most of my innovative strength into to be the matter that is, even in industrial conditions, the main driver of the company and the thing that individuals are most fascinated in,” he suggests. Not collaborations. Not drops. Not the fanfare or the celebrities or buzz. “We are moving into a interval when the main selection is some variety of background,” he proceeds, “and it is really only the collaborations that make any curiosity or market, which, to me, feels like quite significantly the improper solution.” This from the gentleman who proficiently pioneered the collaboration in fashion, bringing KAWS and Futura into the manner entire world and extending his possess attain into item structure and cafés in Japan.